Ok , so you just got yourself a new Holley Throttle Body Injection. The new part comes with a step down gasket , but I choose to bore the Manifold out. I previously have run with the step down gasket and Im excited to see an improvement in air flow versus how it used to be. While I had the intake off, I went ahead and ground deep into the intake and shaped the Intake to head passage radiaus. Its somewhat involved so if you dont have the proper equipment then I sugesst you think twice before starting this. I hope to ease the task for you , the person pondering this option. Here we go.
First take off the negitive cable on the battery .Ok begin removing
the serpentine belt. A 13mm and a rachet on the tensioner is in order dude.
Drain coolant(optional). Next pull the male sensor connectors off the following.
A/C compressor, IAC valve,TPS,Coolant sensor,knock sensor.
Disconnect the fuel lines from the TBI. Remove TBI throttle linkage,save
the clip,strand it over the brake booster, pull off vaccumm lines,take off
TBI set aside. Take out all 3 A/C compressor bolts ,they are underneath it,
13mm.Remove upper compressor to manifold brace 13mm. Save nut. Let it hang
on the fan and fan area. Loosen Alternator bolts on the top drivers right10mm,
and back passengers left(facing motor)10mm. Put screws back in alternator.
Loosen clamp and pull on coolant hose(upper).Unscrew Coolant to Manifold
bulkhead and brake booster bulkhead. Sway them out to their respective sides.


You will need a air grinder or a Rotozip and some sanding skins such as one available from standard abrasives. Use a Machinists marker and using a grinded and flush gasket, mark the manifold top so that material removed will totally match the size profile of the New TBI, or lets just say as best you can do, after all that manifold wasnt easy to take off, and It'll be twice as hard to put back on with setting the valve lash and all(dam 2.8 gaskets, the pushrods go through the gasket).

I began with a air grinder,taking the material off with a slight taper favoring the top more than the deeper part(coolant passages reside behind the bore wall so keep in mind your working around about a 1/4" wall.
The air grinder just wasnt cutting it. This roto zip is a great tool for fast powerful grinding. Be careful it really nasty if you dont handle it with some sensetivity.I really gave a hard bore deep into the manifold . I occasionally wiped off the aluminum dust and set the TBI on the manifold and looked into the bores to check my progress. I really swiped it good with the rotozip and removed air flow disturbing flash and defects.
